You have to go down a short flight of stairs and through a tiny, three-table patio to find the entrance to HI MA WA RI; only a red awning over the single window and two candlelit Chinese lanterns flanking the stairway draw attention to this capable Japanese and Chinese newcomer. This location has been home to a variety of restaurants over the years, most notably Lan's a decade ago. The room is stylish yet reserved; walls are sleek black marble, topped with mirrors that open up the tiny space. Korean owner Calvin Ku circulates the room with a warm smile, graciously boasting about specials. The menu has a full array of fresh sushi, sashimi, and 23 expertly prepared maki, along with appetizers like tempura, asparagus-beef rolls, and some of the best gyoza in town, wrapped in homemade wonton skins. For sharing and experimenting there are bento boxes and sushi boats, the latter serving two to five people and ranging from $75-$125. The four stools at the small sushi bar are usually occupied by a steady flow of locals awaiting carryout orders, while the kitchen in back produces not only standard Japanese entrees (sukiyaki, una-don, teriyaki) but a full line of predictable Chinese dishes like Mongolian beef, sweet-and-sour shrimp, and moo shu pork. Ku also offers a few Korean specialties he thought patrons would appreciate, like bi bim bop, the famous steamed rice bowl topped with vegetables, beef, a sunny-side-up egg, and spicy bean sauce. Japanese beer is available in both small and large bottles and sake is served hot or cold. Green tea or red bean ice cream makes a refreshing finish. Hi Ma Wa Ri is at 346 W. Armitage, 773-871-4777.