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Chicago Reader: Lincoln Square and North Center guide

Intro: The Heart of the Hood Ravenswood, the community that unites two north-side "community areas."
By Ed Zotti

Willi Lehner History: Celery, Ceramics, and Conrad Sulzer The story—or stories—of Lincoln Square and North Center
By Ann Keating

Gary, Indiana Politics: The Grand Old Party's Last Stand Before Daley's minions moved in, a Republican reformer called the shots in Lincoln Square and North Center.
By Ben Joravsky

Gary, Indiana Lincoln Square & North Center Listings:
Bars, education & recreation, galleries, GLBTQ, lit, movies, music, parks, performing arts, restaurants, shopping, volunteering

More Neighborhood Guides
Ukrainian Village/East Village
South Loop
Logan Square
Uptown
Rogers Park & West Ridge

Music

Accordion Italian Music Studio Sam Franco, who teaches private lessons at this studio, has been playing the accordion since he was ten years old—that is, for 75 years. If his name sounds familiar, that might be because you remember him from a 1996 episode of This American Life. Franco claims to be the last jazz accordionist, which he isn’t—Will Holshauser and Richard Galliano, to name just two, are still very much alive—but he’s surely a member of an endangered species. He doesn’t cater to any one style, insisting instead that his instruction prepares his students to play anything; if you have a keen and specific interest in, say, Bulgarian wedding music, you might want to take that into account. Franco can seem cranky, but it’s always in a charming way—beneath his sometimes bristly exterior is a garrulous sweetheart with a deep and abiding love of music. He declined to go on the record with an hourly rate for his lessons, saying, “This ain’t about money.” His studio is open by appointment only. Arrow 5105 N. Claremont, 773-561-2135. —Peter Margasak

Andy’s Music The windows of Andy’s Music are crowded with instruments from all over the world, but nothing you see from the sidewalk can prepare you for the scope and volume of the inventory that fills the shop’s 4,500 square feet. Though they’ve got the usual Guitar Center stuff—including backline gear and PA systems available for rent—the real attraction is the dizzying selection of hard-to-find ethnic instruments. There are koras, balafons, and n’gonis from Africa, sitars, tambouras, and rudra veenas from India—and that’s just scratching the surface. You can find harmoniums, harpsichords, charangas, shruti boxes, steel-pan drums, cajons, jawbones, cuicas, and what looks like hundreds of wooden flutes. The list goes on and on. You’ll need to get somebody’s attention if you have a question—the staff are decidedly noninterventionist—but it’s definitely worth the effort. Andy’s is like a museum where everything’s for sale. Arrow 2300 W. Belmont, 773-868-1234, andysmusic.com. —Peter Margasak

Atlantic Bar and Grill Local polka-rock favorites the Polkaholics frequently play this pub, which also books rock bands and Irish music. See also Bars. Arrow 5062 N. Lincoln, 773-506-7090, theatlanticbar.com.

Beat Kitchen Whenever some out-of-town magazine runs a list of the top music venues in Chicago, it invariably includes the Empty Bottle and Schubas and almost always snubs the Beat Kitchen. But it’s one of the better rock clubs in the city, with a big, loud live room in back separated by marginally soundproof doors from a bar and restaurant up front, which serves decent sandwiches and pizzas and a selection of beers ranging from Hamm’s in cans to bombers of New Holland Dragon’s Milk. The club’s bookings, which lean heavily on punk, probably don’t appeal to the demographic customarily targeted by lists of music venues in magazines, but connoisseurs of punk can appreciate that the Beat Kitchen’s definition of the genre includes everything from hardcore and emo to psychobilly and weird artsy stuff. Imminent shows of interest include Vee Dee (6/25), the Jai-Alai Savant (6/28), Pterodactyl (7/3), and Kayo Dot (7/4). Arrow 2100 W. Belmont, 773-281-4444, beatkitchen.com. —Miles Raymer

Chicago Fret Works To all appearances Chicago Fret Works is your basic guitar-repair shop: instruments in various states of disassembly hang from the walls, one guy does body work and another does electronics, and in a little case there are a couple of locally made effects boxes and some unflashy but necessary gear like humidifiers for acoustic guitars. But they can do more than just basic work—on their Web site they show off some of their most difficult and exotic jobs, from faux aging a new Telecaster to look 50s vintage to rebuilding a Martin acoustic that got on the wrong side of some airport baggage handlers. Their prices, on the other hand, are on par with your average luthier’s. Arrow 4229 N. Lincoln, 773-698-6246, chicagofretworks.com. —Miles Raymer

Chicago Guitar & Amplifier A guitarist with a not-insignificant chunk of cash in his pocket and an urge to step up from factory-made gear would do well to visit Chicago Guitar & Amplifier. Operating out of an off-street coach house on a not-so-quaint stretch of Lincoln, this team of young luthiers can turn a mass-produced ax into a one-of-a-kind specimen or build something totally custom from scratch. For their own instruments they favor quality materials and vintage aesthetics: mahogany and rosewood for bodies and necks, nitrocellulose finishes over the paint, and silhouettes reminiscent of classic midcentury models. They also offer amps that house the shop’s own electronics in enclosures made by the local metalheads behind Emperor cabinets, and they’ll soon be selling Emperor cabs customized with flourishes like sunburst paint jobs. Arrow 4910 N. Lincoln, 773-561-6860, chicagoguitarandamplifier.com. —Miles Raymer

DANK Haus Opened in 1959 as a chapter of the Deutsch Amerikanischer National Kongress, DANK Haus is a German cultural center that houses a small museum, a library, a ballroom, and a language school in its rather monolithic building; several spaces can be rented for private functions. DANK Haus occasionally screens German films and hosts concerts, often of traditional German music. Its Jazz on the Terrace series, held in the building’s sixth-floor lounge (or on the rooftop terrace, weather permitting), is usually the first Friday of the month; the next show is July 10. See also Education & Recreation, Galleries, Movies, and Volunteering. Arrow 4740 N. Western, 773-561-9181, dankhaus.com. —Peter Margasak

Deadwax Brick-and-mortar record shops are dropping like flies, so it’s nice to see a neighborhood operation like Deadwax hanging on. As its name suggests, the store devotes most of its floor space to vinyl, mostly secondhand, and the atmosphere invites browsing. The selection is broad, and though you probably shouldn’t rely on Deadwax to stock the latest releases, you’re likely to find something worthwhile on every visit. The shop also sells used CDs, books, and loads of videos and DVDs. Arrow 3819 N. Lincoln, 773-529-1932. —Peter Margasak

Experimental Sound Studio Opened back in 1986, Experimental Sound Studio is a crucial resource for artists involved in avant-garde music or pursuing multimedia projects that require a sensibility outside the comfort zone of the average studio hound. Executive director and cofounder Lou Mallozzi is a distinguished sound artist and an adjunct professor at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, and ESS considers education a big part of its mission: it offers workshops in basic subjects like mixing and editing, microphone selection and placement, and how to use Ableton Live or Pro Tools, as well as more specialized classes about, say, radio-documentary production or “the intersection of visual and musical experience” (that is, graphic scores). A few years ago ESS established the Creative Audio Archive to house and preserve innovative and experimental recordings made in and around Chicago—it currently includes a selection of 1980s recordings from the Links Hall performance series, a huge trove of Sun Ra material, and the entire vast collection of concerts recorded by activist Malachi Ritscher. There’s also a small visual-art gallery on the premises, and the main studio hosts an ongoing series of Sunday-afternoon solo performances; upcoming highlights include saxophonist Dave Rempis (6/28) and drummer Tim Daisy (7/12). Arrow 5925 N. Ravenswood, 773-769-1069, exsost.org. —Peter Margasak

Hidden Cove A karaoke favorite, the Hidden Cove also books cover bands on Saturdays and occasionally on Fridays; they generally wrap up early, before the karaoke starts. See also Bars. Arrow 5336 N. Lincoln, 773-275-3955.

Horseshoe There’s only live music at the Horseshoe from Thursday through Saturday, but the place has a honky-tonk vibe all week long. Ads for way-cheap drink specials outnumber band posters on the outside of the club, and on the inside its wood-panel decor is the closest thing to a barn in the neighborhood. Sunday through Wednesday the big draw is Texas-style barbecue, which nonvegetarian friends assure me is the real deal; on weekends the bar becomes the north-side headquarters for Chicago’s rockabilly contingent, hosting country and rock combos that tend toward straight interpretations of classic 50s stuff. Upcoming shows include the Long Gone Lonesome Boys (6/27), the Barehand Jug Band (7/7), and the monthly Folk You! showcase (7/17). Arrow 4115 N. Lincoln, 773-248-1366, myspace.com/horseshoechicago. —Miles Raymer

Hungry Brain This comfortable, unassuming bar caters to a fairly young crowd—hipsters and theater people are well represented—and though the beer selection is fine and the jukebox better than most, it’s the Sunday Transmission concert series that really sets the Hungry Brain apart (there’s occasionally music other nights too). Booked by drummer Mike Reed and cornetist Josh Berman, the series has been running since 2001 and became part of the Umbrella Music organization a few years back; it attracts a mix of local, national, and international artists playing jazz, improvised, and experimental music. There’s no cover charge, but patrons dutifully cough up some cash when the promoters pass the hat—or rather the wicker bicycle basket—during each set. Upcoming highlights include Sabir Mateen’s Omni-Sound (6/28), Keefe Jackson (7/5), and Herculaneum (7/12). Arrow 2319 W. Belmont, 773-935-2118, myspace.com/hungrybrainchicago. —Peter Margasak

Julius Meinl This outpost of the famed Viennese coffee company hosts small-scale jazz, classical, and world music on Friday and Saturday nights. Upcoming acts include Irish harpist Aislinn (6/26) and the Ken Shiokawa duo (6/27). See also Restaurants. Arrow 4363 N. Lincoln, 773-868-1876, www.meinl.com/northamerica/home.html.

Laurie’s Planet of Sound The employees of Laurie’s Planet of Sound are among the city’s most vocal advocates for the continued existence of independent record stores, which I suppose comes naturally when you work for one of the city’s best independent record stores. While they lack the square footage of a place like Reckless, they make up for it with a well-curated selection of vinyl and CDs, heavy on indie rock and other genres friendly to indie rockers (they’re especially good with soul and psych reissues). Some styles are underrepresented—hip-hop CDs get just two and a half rows—but I’m willing to forgive that on account of the overabundance of record-geek catnip like button sets, posters, retro iron-on patches, and Pee Wee Herman swag. As part of its outreach the store maintains a Twitter presence: @lauriespos. Arrow 4639 N. Lincoln, 773-271-3569, lauriesplanetofsound.tripod.com. —Miles Raymer

Leadway Bar & Gallery The Open Arms Open Mic night takes over the Leadway’s back-room gallery every Wednesday night from 9 PM to 12:30 AM. The bar also occasionally hosts other performances, including recitals from students at the Old Town School of Folk Music. For more information on the open mike, contact openarmsopenmic@gmail.com. See also Bars. Arrow 5233 N. Damen, 773-728-2663.

Martyrs’ You won’t find too many blogged-about Next Big Things at Martyrs’; take a quick glance at the club’s calendar and you’ll see mostly folksy troubadours, alt-country bands, and rock outfits playing everything from 50s retro to uncomplicated alt-pop. But that schedule bears a second look: for every safe sure thing like Tributasaurus—a tribute band that makes frequent appearances in the guise of, say, the Cars or Pink Floyd—there’s an Afrobeat group, a New Orleans jazz combo, or an electronic dance act. Martyrs’ has also hosted some great shows during the World Music Festival, including Vieux Farka Toure and Boban Markovic. Its large live room, excellent sound system, and unfussy atmosphere make for a consistently satisfying concertgoing experience. Upcoming shows include Robbie Fulks (7/17), T-Model Ford (7/18), Adrian Belew (7/24), the Rebirth Brass Band (7/31), and Alasdair Roberts (8/10). Arrow 3855 N. Lincoln, 773-404-9494, martyrslive.com. —Miles Raymer

Metal Haven Most indie record stores stock little more than crossover-proven metal like Mastodon or Pelican, but this humble-looking shop is so metal that not even light can escape. And when you bring a stack of gory-ass grindcore or death-metal records up to the counter, you won’t get a weird look—in fact you’ll probably end up having an illuminating conversation with the clerk and tossing a couple albums he recommends onto the pile. Don’t be fooled by Metal Haven’s placid strip-mall exterior: inside is a dark and brutal realm where Carcass shirts hang for the taking and the staff know how to pronounce band names like “Njiqahdda.” Arrow 2003 W. Montrose, 773-755-9202. —Miles Raymer

Old Town School of Folk Music Founded back in 1957 in the Old Town neighborhood, the school moved to bigger digs in Lincoln Park in 1968, and then in 1998 to its current home—the former Hild Library, an art deco gem built in 1931. Music lessons remain the institution’s bread and butter—it offers classes in practically any genre you can think of—and there’s also a music store on site that sells instruments, CDs, and instructional books. The school is also a great place to listen to music. Its 425-seat concert hall, partly ringed by a gorgeous WPA mural, is the city’s best midsize listening room: no seat is more than 45 feet from the lip of the stage, and the sound and sight lines are excellent. The Old Town School books plenty of folk and country, as you might expect, but you can regularly see top-notch jazz, rock, soul, and gospel, as well as other regional American styles. There’s also a great Wednesday-night world-music series with no formal cover, just a very reasonable five-dollar suggested donation. Upcoming highlights include Boukman Eksperyans (7/8), the Folk & Roots Festival in Welles Park, featuring Karsh Kale, Black Joe Lewis, and many others (7/11-7/12), Michael McDermott (7/31), the Savoy Family Band (8/2), Ruthie Foster (8/22), and Dar Williams (8/23). See also Education & Recreation and Volunteering. Arrow 4544 N. Lincoln, 773-728-6000, oldtownschool.org. —Peter Margasak

Rock ’n’ Roll Vintage The atmosphere of this little shop fairly crackles with gear lust. There are only maybe 20 or 30 guitars and basses hanging on the walls, but on a recent visit they included two clean vintage Fender Mustangs, a massive white Mosrite bass, a couple of Airline guitars of the type favored by Jack White, and a completely cherry Gibson Melody Maker in the old SG body shape with a rich coppery brown paint job—plus a pointy hot pink Ibanez, maybe just to keep people on their toes. They’ve also got several glass cases crammed with effects boxes, which range from predictable picks like reissue overdrives to bizarre specialized pedals from boutique manufacturers like Zvex and Death by Audio. Arrow 4740 N. Lincoln, 773-878-8616, rocknrollvintage.com. —Miles Raymer

Silvie’s Lounge Silvie’s is about as basic as a rock club gets: on one side there’s a barroom with pool and darts, and through a door there’s another room with tables and booths and a PA set up in front. You’re not likely to see any particularly big bands there—it only takes a few dozen people to make the music room feel pretty full—but the club’s open-minded booking habits bring in a diverse cross-section of north-side talent, ranging from acoustic singer-songwriters to heavy alt-rock to hip-hop. And given its modest size and cheap drinks, you can take a few buddies to hang out and dance to a friend’s DJ set and it’ll feel like a party in your own private clubhouse. Silvie’s hosts an acoustic showcase every other Monday and a variety show every Tuesday. This week’s headliners include the Bradley Report (6/25) and Sylis Assigned (6/26). Arrow 1902 W. Irving Park, 773-871-6239, silvieslounge.com. —Miles Raymer

Viaduct Theatre The Viaduct occasionally presents live music, often curated by outsiders, and starting in mid-July it’ll be fairly regular on weekends. The diverse offerings so far have included indie rock, samba, jazz, folk, and even a heavy metal burlesque show. Every Thursday in July the space hosts Reset List, a rock concert where the songs are all improvised on the spot based on titles provided by the audience. Also upcoming is a Viaduct benefit DJed by the Windy City Soul Club (7/4). See also Theater. Arrow 3111 N. Western, 773-296-6024, viaducttheatre.com.

Volcan Gallery This newish storefront gallery hosts an open mike every Friday and local bands every other Saturday. See also Galleries. Arrow 1917 W. Irving Park, 773-880-8075, volcangallery.com.

Previous Neighborhood Guides

Ukrainian Village/East Village | South Loop | Logan Square | Uptown Rogers Park & West Ridge

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