Pheasant, Shallot, Cider, Burning Oak Leaves
PHEASANT
1 boned pheasant breast, skin on
5 g (.2 oz) kosher salt
black pepper
2 sprigs thyme
1 fresh bay leaf
30 g (1.1 oz) butter
Season pheasant with salt and pepper. Place pheasant, thyme, bay leaf, and butter in vacuum bag and seal on highest setting. Cook en sous vide at 160°F (71°C) for 25 minutes. Transfer bag to large bowl of ice water to cool for 15 minutes. Remove breast from bag and discard remaining contents. Cut breast into 3/4-inch (1.9-cm) cubes. Cover with damp paper towel and refrigerate.
SHALLOTS
4 medium gray shallots, unpeeled
30 g (1.1 oz) grape seed oil
5 g (.2 oz) kosher salt
Heat oven to 350°F (180°C). Toss shallots with oil and salt. Place in small roasting pan or ovenproof sauté pan. Roast for 1 hour, or until very soft. Let cool completely. Remove papery skin and thin translucent skin from shallots. Cut into 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) cubes. Refrigerate in small container.
CIDER GEL
250 g (8.8 oz) tart apples such as Granny Smith
250 g (8.8 oz) apple cider
5 g (.2 oz) kosher salt
7 g (.2 oz) agar agar
Line 4 1/2-by-6-inch (11.4-by-15.2-cm) shallow pan with plastic wrap. Peel and core apples and cut into 2-inch (5.1-cm) pieces. In small saucepan, bring apples, cider, salt and agar agar to a simmer over medium heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until apples are soft. Transfer to blender and blend until smooth. Strain through chinois into prepared pan. Refrigerate pan, taking care to keep it level, and chill for about 2 hours, or until set. Cut into 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) cubes. Return to refrigerator.
OAK BRANCH SKEWERS
8 narrow oak twigs with dead leaves attached, 6 inches (15.2 cm) long
Using vegetable peeler, pare one end of each twig to about thickness of a bamboo skewer, with leaves on opposite end.
DRY TEMPURA BASE
300 g (10.6 oz) all-purpose flour
35 g (1.2 oz) baking powder
45 g (1.6 oz) cornstarch
In medium bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, and cornstarch.
TO ASSEMBLE AND SERVE
125 g (4.4 oz) highly carbonated sparkling water, very cold
1000 g (2 lb 3.3 oz) canola oil
50 g (1.8 oz) kosher salt
50 g (1.8 oz) black pepper
100 g (3.5 oz) all-purpose flour
In medium bowl, gently fold sparkling water into 225 g (7.9 oz) dry tempura base with fork.
Line sheet tray with double layer of paper towels. Pour oil into medium saucepan and heat to 375°F (190°C). While oil heats, gently thread 1 shallot piece onto each oak branch. Follow with 1 cube of cider gel and 1 cube of pheasant. Season cubes on skewers with 25 g (.9 oz) each of salt and pepper, then dredge in flour, tapping off excess. Dip skewer into tempura batter so batter just covers cubes, allowing excess to drip off. Holding lead end of skewer, immediately immerse battered cubes, allowing excess to drip off. Holding leaf end of skewer, immediately immerse battered cubes in oil for about 3 minutes, or until lightly browned. Drain on prepared sheet tray. Season battered cubes with remaining 25 g (.9 oz) each salt and pepper. Ignite leaves with kitchen torch and quickly extinguish.
Place each branch in squid service piece. Serve while leaves are still smoldering.
Reprinted with permission from Alinea by Grant Achatz, copyright 2008. Published by Achatz LLC/Ten Speed Press. Send a letter to the editor.
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